A Night of Misanthropy

Saturday, August 30, 2008

We met Prof. Rudalevige outside Southwark Cathedral on the south bank of the Thames. He lectured a bit about the history of the cathedral and of the area in general. Because it was outside of the boundaries of the City of London, the south bank, or Bankside, area became both a military headquarters (for defense of the London Bridge), and also a headquarters for debauchery, outside the jurisdiction of the laws of London. Consider, for instance, how all the play houses of the 16th and 17th centuries are on the south side of the river. It’s also where all the brothels and bear-bating rings were. These things were all condemned by the church (theaters were considered the “seat of the devil”) and were actually torn down during the Cromwell years following the Civil War. Ironic, since all the prostitutes that worked the theatres were in the employ of the Church.
Southwark was also the convergence of all major roads leading from the south of England. In fact, as we exited the Tube station, we walked along Borough High Street, which was the original Roman road leading from the south. We got to see the only surviving coaching inn left in London, of which there used to be many on the outskirt of the city. Coaches traveling to London from the far counties could stop there, stable their horses, have a meal and find lodging before moving on into the city. This last inn, the George, is now just a restaurant, but it has been preserved by the National Trust and was probably frequented by Dickens. Also in Southwark, although we didn’t get to see it, is the site of the Tabard, the 14th century inn where Chaucer begins The Canterbury Tales.
We walked through the Borough Market, which is an enormous food market. Everything you could possibly imagine. It was fantastic. I bought some Turkish Delight, because it reminded me of The Lion, the Witch, and the Wardrobe. Not bad.
Then we had a tour of the Globe. I know that Wilson said that the Globe I toured is as authentic as Disney World. I’ll admit, I did have a sense of walking through a Renaissance Fair. And then I found out that this Globe, the third Globe to ever have been, isn’t even on the site of the original Globe. It’s about two minutes downriver. A mite depressing. What is on that original sight that’s SO important that they couldn’t move it to rebuild the Globe? Priorities, people!
Chad and I walked back to Borough Market to get some lunch. We got separated, but I met up with Leah, and we bought a loaf of ciabatta bread, a wedge of cheese, and some peaches, and went to sit over by the river. It was a gorgeous day, and we had a lovely little picnic. I can’t accurately describe how beautiful a view there is from that side of the river. The dome of St. Paul’s towers over everything. Today was just a beautiful day. The Thames isn’t exactly sparkling blue, but maybe they’ll clean it up for the Olympics like Sydney cleaned the bay in 2000.
Lauren and Chris found a Samuel Peyps Pub and were very excited.
After lunch we met up at the Tate Modern Gallery and were allowed to wander around on our own. I can’t say it’s my favorite museum. I don’t mind all of it, and I admire the ideas behind some modern pieces. I just prefer to look at paintings for their content, and not consider the inner torment of artist or be made aware of my isolation as a viewer or human being.
I wonder who decides the definition of “art.” Even though I didn’t always like the pieces in the Tate Modern, I will admit that some of them can be considered “art.” They took time and effort to conceive and create. But when a piece of “artwork” consists of two stuffed birds nailed to the wall by arrows and a stick-figure house drawn on the wall around them…that is not art. It’s a taxidermy project in a day-care center.
I was so tired, though, after these last few days that my eyes could barely focus on anything I was looking at. I tried to see as much as I could before I felt like I had to leave, but eventually I did decide that I needed some time to lie down before I had to come back for Timon Of Athens. So I walked across the Millennium Bridge, around St. Paul’s and down to the St. Paul’s Tube station, and took the Tube back to the hotel.

We arrived at the Globe for Timon Of Athens. I’ll admit, I wasn’t too excited at the prospect of having to stand for three hours after having walked all day. I was pleasantly surprised. The standing wasn’t that wonderful, but I wouldn’t have had it any other way. It’s as a groundling that you get to have to real Globe experience. The actors would often run through the audience in and out the doors, and when they were onstage, their monologues were often directed at the groundlings, not the people in seats. It was FANTASTIC. Why isn’t it better known?
Of the three plays we’ve seen so far, this was certainly my favorite, for a number of reasons. I loved being a groundling, being involved in and surrounded by the action. The plot, for the most part, actually worked and was engaging (unlike Her Naked Skin), and it was hilarious, even though it is a tragedy. The acting was fantastic! And Flavius the Steward was played by Patrick Godfrey, who plays Leonardo da Vinci in Ever After. That was exciting. I knew he looked familiar. As we were exiting the theatre, we saw fireworks over toward the East End. Although we weren’t too sure why there were fireworks going off, it seemed like a fitting end to a beautiful day. It was too nice a night to just go back to the hotel, so I went to a pub and got drinks with Lauren, Chris, Alana, Katie, and Jen.

The staging of the play was really interesting, although I’m sure it sparked some debate. Unlike authentic Shakespearian productions, this one had a set, though not an extensive one, at least on stage. Above us, covering the entire groundling pit and stage, was a net suspended from the rafters. The net had some holes in it periodically, and the entire stage was rigged with bungee cords and high wires. There were “crows,” or actors dressed in black costumes with cloth wings, which would fly around on the wires and jump around on the net, making eerie bird noises and just generally serving the purpose of a bad omen. Some of characters would enter from the holes on bungee cords. Certainly not authentic Shakespearian, and I’m not quite sure what the Bard would have thought of it, but I really liked being thrown into the atmosphere. It kept my attention. So did the costumes. They were period (although which period, I’m not entirely sure), but the fabrics were very shiny, sometimes glittery, and the colors were surprisingly bright in places. Also, everyone but Timon and his servants had capes cut like the wings of the birds, with jagged edges suggesting feathers. I guess this means to suggest that all of Timon’s “followers” are like crows or, more accurately, vultures. This all culminates in both birds and Athenians’ frenzied devouring of Timon’s body after his death. The whole play ended with Arcibialdes leading the Athenians in a militaristic Mediterranean line dance what was a bit creepier than the “jig” that traditionally ended a Renaissance tragedy was supposed to be.
I know not everyone LOVED Timon of Athens, but I thought it was wonderful, and I can’t wait to go back to the Globe to see Merry Wives of Windsor.